Thursday, January 29, 2009

PARIS FASHION WEEK MEN'S FALL/ WINTER 2009-2010

In Paris Men’s fashion week a lot of designers didn’t go to the safe route and offered men’s a more creative collection for fall and winter 2009/2010. Men are romantics or pragmatics, lovers or fighters are the main theme in Paris.

Armand Basi showed a very good debut show for Kenzo with his Russian constructivism inspired collection. The best parts were military influenced coats and suits with flower embroidery, great balance of tough and soft. John Galliano paired giant black organza bow with sleek tuxedos to add extra romance.

Gareth Pugh showed very touch cyber punk clothes. Futuristic and extreme shapes in entirely black and pewter with Goth leanings, shredded leggings, satin matador pants and shaggy furs. Some items were covered in spikes. Thiery Mugler showed some X-men inspired clothing. Wasteland warriors are main theme in Rick Owens show. The collection is filled with floor-length knit dress and the short skirts layered over harem pants, oversized hood and opera jacket with strong shoulders. Raf Simons offered corporate warriors with new shape and fabric for suits, knitted and neoprenelike shrugs. There's a lot of ninja inspiration that can be seen in the collection of Damir Doma and Kazuyuki Kamagai for Attachment.

My top 5 (well 6 exactly) show in Paris
1) Jean Paul Gaultier - Amazing casting match with equally amazing clothes. I love all the marvelously cut tailored suits and coats sprinkled with punk and mod style. Razor-sharp shadow plaids, pinstripes, and camel, classic outerwear updated with sly punk and bondage references, chesterfield coat with leather lapels, duffel with chains in lieu of toggles, trench coats rigged with harnesses, and suit trousers were lashed with bondage straps were among the wonderful pieces from the collection

2) Comme des Garcons – Rei Kawakubo showed another very interesting and irresistible show. Just the accessories alone are a head turner: leopard slip-ons with jeweled buckles, or two-tone patent Mary Janes with big bows. The best part was when he inserted contradictory panels of fabric into these cloths: a leopard spot next to twill, a rough check in a Prince of Wales jacket, and a print of a Napoleonic tailcoat hard up against gray pinstripe. Even his black skirt looks very wearable and manly.

Tie with
Raf Simons - I always love Raf creative way of showing new shapes and used of new fabrics. His shrugs looks so modern and new. I really the stunning mixing of two different fabrics for suits,a similar concept to Rei Kawakubos' Comme des Garcons.

3) Hugo boss – I love the ultra sleek and sharp clothes. I love all the coats and jacket from this ultra minimalist show.

4) Victor & Rolf – I love the mixing of formal and casual pieces, a great example was the coat tail paired with track pants. The chambray shirt with bib and the cardigan are a must have items

5) Lanvin – Lanvin showed a very impressive men's collection. I love the modern silhouettes. Laser-cut suits from jersey or trousers with the ease of track pants.

OK now I'm interested in hearing your top 5 shows in Paris.

ADAM KIMMEL


ANN DEMEULEMEESTER



ARMAND BASI



CERRUTI


COMMES DES GARCONS


DAMIR DOMA


DIOR HOMME


DRIES VAN NOTEN


DUNHILL


EMANUEL UNGARO


GARETH PUGH



GASPARD YURKIEVICH


GIVENCHY




GUSTAVO LINS




HENRIK VIBSKOV


HERMES


IO IPSE IDEM BY ROMEO GIGLI



ISSEY MIYAKE



JEAN PAUL GAULTIER



JOHN GALLIANO



JSEN WINTLE



JUNYA WATANABE


KAZUYUKI KUMAGAI FOR ATTACHMENT


KENZO BY ANTONIO MARRAS



KRIS VAN ASSCHE


LOEWE


LOUIS VUITTON


MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA


MIHARA YASUHIRO


NUMBER(N)INE


PAUL & JOE


PAUL SMITH




RAF SIMONS


RICK OWENS


STEPHAN SCHNEIDER


TILLMAN LAUTERBACH


THIERY MUGLER


UTE PLOIER


VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO


VICTOR & ROLF


WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK


WOOYOUNGMI



YOHJI YAMAMOTO


YVES SAINT LAURENT
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Milan Fashion Week Men's Fall/Winter 2009/2010 - Going Back to where the money is